Wednesday, July 27, 2005
The Flag
I have two days before I begin costume "tech-ing" for the run of Cabaret. (That's jargon for mending, washing and dry cleaning.) They have already hung the flag we made for the outside of The River Theater. The flag, like the pennet string, is not my art work. It was copied from part of the original poster art. If I knew the artist's name I would credit him/her here.
Our challenge: a 3'x5' two sided, weather-proof flag.
The first problem encountered...Budget. I have made outside banners/ flags before. With canvas. If you look through past posts you will see the 'mini banners". See, the canvas works. And when primed properly, you can paint both sides of the same piece of canvas. Well, my first choice canvas, ( nine dollars a yard plus the shipping because none of the stores around here carry artist canvas) lost out to the two 5'x5' used red table cloths, that were already in the back. So, with a grumpy face I brought the 100% polyester table cloths home, promising that I would try and make them work. So, we did a test paint and heat set and then hubby dear stapled it to the deck railing and sprayed it down with the hose on jet. And.... it didn't run. But the paint did bleed through, badly. Another grumpy face, but with resignation in my heart, we began the project.
The paint bleeding through meant that there would have to be two flags made into one. I cut the table cloths into 37"x60" rectangles, trying my best to leave out the bad parts.( Somebody has eaten on these table cloths. Someone else used them as drop cloths) So, now I need the exact image on both flag sides. Free hand copying another's art is not one of my strong points, especially with an increase, and having to do it exact, twice. So, I opt to enlarge the image to trace out on both of the fabric pieces.
We covered the table and then taped flag one down.
With the permission of the theater we ah, REALLY enlarged one of the "Kit- Kat Girl" images from the poster. What does REALLY mean? Well, from under four inches, to just over four feet!
We used our home copier.
How? Enlarge your image to the maximum , then cut it into quarters and enlarge the four quarters to maximum. Just keep doing that until you have the right size. We ended up with 30 sheets of copied parts to cut and piece back together with tape.
Here's the photo of that.
Four inch tall art work is not intended to be examined under a microscope and blowing it up to four feet tall does not really give you smooth results, all of the microscopic imperfections are exposed. So, I had to touch up her lines and even her up a bit. Then I transferred the image to the fabric. Carbon paper is our friend.
The lettering came next. The "font" on the poster art was free hand with a paint brush, white in color and small. Copy enlarging was not really an option. So, I had to free hand it.
Then on to the painting.
These really used up the paint. Two large tubes of acrylic paint. ( Don't forget the textile medium if this is going to be washed or get wet.)
We dried the flag with a blow dryer. Yes, we really did. And removed the tape and hung the flag up on tacks , then re-papered and taped the next flag fabric down. Then transferred, free hand, paint, blow dry and hang with tacks. Then we slept... Got to let the paint cure, right?
The next morning reveals that the chalk marks from the lettering that I didn't space correctly is still there. The second chalking was great and that is what I painted. But the first chalk was showing, so much for brush off chalk, grrrr, polyester. And the flag that is tacked up to the shelf over the window is showing every dinner that was ever eaten on it in the sunlight. Meaning that these two as one flags are going to need some type of interfacing between them. Ok, so, now what? Interfacing, while not very costly for a lapel or waist band, can be pricey if you need three yards. I would have to get the black for a true "no show" through. Black, costs more and does not come in five foot widths. I am thinking .... seams... layers... and then how well will interfacing do in the wind and rain. Interfacing is for clothing. So, with Bree giving me all of the available options via her cell phone, I decide... not to use interfacing but plain black cotton. She buys it, brings it home and pre-washes and dries it. Yeah! To get the chalk off , I tested several different methods on a scrap piece. What finally worked? Detergent and a sponge. Then alcohol as a de-foaming agent. No way did I want to risk putting it in the washer at this point, heat set or not.
Once we were back on track we cut rod pockets , one red, one black and sandwiched all the layers together, (think quillow) and pinned it all around, leaving an opening to turn.
After it was all sewn together, we clipped all of the edges and corners and flipped it. Then we pinned again and I top stitched all around closing up the opening left over from turning.
Here is how it turned out.
Note the difference in lettering to cover traces of a previous life as a drop cloth.
The best way to see it is of course, outside The River Theater.
Our challenge: a 3'x5' two sided, weather-proof flag.
The first problem encountered...Budget. I have made outside banners/ flags before. With canvas. If you look through past posts you will see the 'mini banners". See, the canvas works. And when primed properly, you can paint both sides of the same piece of canvas. Well, my first choice canvas, ( nine dollars a yard plus the shipping because none of the stores around here carry artist canvas) lost out to the two 5'x5' used red table cloths, that were already in the back. So, with a grumpy face I brought the 100% polyester table cloths home, promising that I would try and make them work. So, we did a test paint and heat set and then hubby dear stapled it to the deck railing and sprayed it down with the hose on jet. And.... it didn't run. But the paint did bleed through, badly. Another grumpy face, but with resignation in my heart, we began the project.
The paint bleeding through meant that there would have to be two flags made into one. I cut the table cloths into 37"x60" rectangles, trying my best to leave out the bad parts.( Somebody has eaten on these table cloths. Someone else used them as drop cloths) So, now I need the exact image on both flag sides. Free hand copying another's art is not one of my strong points, especially with an increase, and having to do it exact, twice. So, I opt to enlarge the image to trace out on both of the fabric pieces.
We covered the table and then taped flag one down.
With the permission of the theater we ah, REALLY enlarged one of the "Kit- Kat Girl" images from the poster. What does REALLY mean? Well, from under four inches, to just over four feet!
We used our home copier.
How? Enlarge your image to the maximum , then cut it into quarters and enlarge the four quarters to maximum. Just keep doing that until you have the right size. We ended up with 30 sheets of copied parts to cut and piece back together with tape.
Here's the photo of that.
Four inch tall art work is not intended to be examined under a microscope and blowing it up to four feet tall does not really give you smooth results, all of the microscopic imperfections are exposed. So, I had to touch up her lines and even her up a bit. Then I transferred the image to the fabric. Carbon paper is our friend.
The lettering came next. The "font" on the poster art was free hand with a paint brush, white in color and small. Copy enlarging was not really an option. So, I had to free hand it.
Then on to the painting.
These really used up the paint. Two large tubes of acrylic paint. ( Don't forget the textile medium if this is going to be washed or get wet.)
We dried the flag with a blow dryer. Yes, we really did. And removed the tape and hung the flag up on tacks , then re-papered and taped the next flag fabric down. Then transferred, free hand, paint, blow dry and hang with tacks. Then we slept... Got to let the paint cure, right?
The next morning reveals that the chalk marks from the lettering that I didn't space correctly is still there. The second chalking was great and that is what I painted. But the first chalk was showing, so much for brush off chalk, grrrr, polyester. And the flag that is tacked up to the shelf over the window is showing every dinner that was ever eaten on it in the sunlight. Meaning that these two as one flags are going to need some type of interfacing between them. Ok, so, now what? Interfacing, while not very costly for a lapel or waist band, can be pricey if you need three yards. I would have to get the black for a true "no show" through. Black, costs more and does not come in five foot widths. I am thinking .... seams... layers... and then how well will interfacing do in the wind and rain. Interfacing is for clothing. So, with Bree giving me all of the available options via her cell phone, I decide... not to use interfacing but plain black cotton. She buys it, brings it home and pre-washes and dries it. Yeah! To get the chalk off , I tested several different methods on a scrap piece. What finally worked? Detergent and a sponge. Then alcohol as a de-foaming agent. No way did I want to risk putting it in the washer at this point, heat set or not.
Once we were back on track we cut rod pockets , one red, one black and sandwiched all the layers together, (think quillow) and pinned it all around, leaving an opening to turn.
After it was all sewn together, we clipped all of the edges and corners and flipped it. Then we pinned again and I top stitched all around closing up the opening left over from turning.
Here is how it turned out.
Note the difference in lettering to cover traces of a previous life as a drop cloth.
The best way to see it is of course, outside The River Theater.
Wednesday, July 20, 2005
The Pennet String
These have been such busy days, it's hard to find time to post. I thought I would show you what we have been creating for The River Theater.
As always there is a small budget and when you have a small budget you have to have a large imagination. How can you make a thirty-six foot long pennet string on a budget?
Good question.
Here is how we did it.
Fifteen red backed dancer images and fifteen white backed dancer images, laminated, evenly spaced, and color alternated, then sewn together using.....double faced bias tape.
Did anyone know you could sew through laminated items? Well, I didn't until last week. But I thought I would give it a try.
I chose a #16 jeans/sharp top stitching needle and heavy top stitching thread.
Here's what sewing it together looks like.
All of the pins I used to hold the images in place had to be thrown away, as the laminate dulls them and they were bent up quite a bit . Despite the bais tape the whole process was rather more slippery than I had thought it would be. The first time through was ....um .. shall we say, trying and I did get pricked... a lot. As most seamtresses know, the thing you worry about most when you get hurt sewing, is not bleeding on the project, no worries here really, laminate wipes clean!
I changed to a new needle for the second row of stitching. I would not recommend skipping this step no matter what. When I sewed the second row of stitching, Bree held the pennets behind me to keep them from twisting and tangling as I sewed through. As you can see from the photo there are dancer girls behind the machine, on the machine, waiting in front of the machine, what you can't see are the ones in my lap , over my shoulder, and Bree standing behind me with the rest of the pile, waiting for the nod to send more forward.
I don't think I would try this with a machine that is not geared for at least denim sewing.
Don't, whatever you do, try this with a light-duty machine!
This is an akward project no doubt about it.
Definitly not for the beginner.
As always there is a small budget and when you have a small budget you have to have a large imagination. How can you make a thirty-six foot long pennet string on a budget?
Good question.
Here is how we did it.
Fifteen red backed dancer images and fifteen white backed dancer images, laminated, evenly spaced, and color alternated, then sewn together using.....double faced bias tape.
Did anyone know you could sew through laminated items? Well, I didn't until last week. But I thought I would give it a try.
I chose a #16 jeans/sharp top stitching needle and heavy top stitching thread.
Here's what sewing it together looks like.
All of the pins I used to hold the images in place had to be thrown away, as the laminate dulls them and they were bent up quite a bit . Despite the bais tape the whole process was rather more slippery than I had thought it would be. The first time through was ....um .. shall we say, trying and I did get pricked... a lot. As most seamtresses know, the thing you worry about most when you get hurt sewing, is not bleeding on the project, no worries here really, laminate wipes clean!
I changed to a new needle for the second row of stitching. I would not recommend skipping this step no matter what. When I sewed the second row of stitching, Bree held the pennets behind me to keep them from twisting and tangling as I sewed through. As you can see from the photo there are dancer girls behind the machine, on the machine, waiting in front of the machine, what you can't see are the ones in my lap , over my shoulder, and Bree standing behind me with the rest of the pile, waiting for the nod to send more forward.
I don't think I would try this with a machine that is not geared for at least denim sewing.
Don't, whatever you do, try this with a light-duty machine!
This is an akward project no doubt about it.
Definitly not for the beginner.
Monday, July 11, 2005
Has it been so long?
I have been away from posting too long. But I/We have been sewing up a storm!
As you can see by the project door , we have been busy.
We did costume touch-ups for Shanghied in Astoria (purple satin insets and lace trim on 5 can-can dancers tops, bias tape trim for "Jakko" and "Enio's" vests, and took in the waist band on "Rosie's" skirt). For ourselves we have sewn six skirts, five shirts, one purse and worked as sewing consultant for daughter # 3's new skirt and poncho.
We are doing so much, I just keep getting caught up in the process and forget to take pictures of what we are sewing. I start out so good too...
Here are the project photos we took of the "Stripey Purse"
Gather all materials 
Iron
Layout pattern 
Attach interfacing
Finished purse.
See, I do start out pretty good, but then the picture taking takes a backseat to the creative process.
I think Bree did a great job on this "Stripey Purse". She must think so too, because she is using it right now. And she has plans ( and more importantly, the fabric) to make more of these cuties.
The aformentioned "Bestest Friend in the Whole Wide World", has arrived all safe and sound and loves her newly painted guitar enough to actually learn to play the bass line of "Smoke on the Water". Getting her to pose for a photo of her and the finished guitar.... well, shall we say not yet. But I am working on her.
Now here is a handy tool/ gadget for you"make" and try out for yourself.
I was with my then future son-in-law helping him pick out a suit or two for his honeymoon. When it was time for the fitting, the lady tailor at the Men's Warehouse pulled out this funky looking metal thing and had him put his heel on the base, then she marked a line on the back of the pants leg. That's it. Hummmm? The suit came in and the pants were the right length. No pins... no measuring tape... no gauges? Where did she get that thingy? How did it work? Well I looked all over for that thingy. I asked all around and no one could tell me
a. how does it work. b. where to get it. or c. what is it?
The Men's Warehouse acted like it was some kind of national secret. So, I figured it out myself.... then I found a common household item that would work as replacement, it's not as pretty as the one she had but for about two dollars you can have one too!
TA DA!
The Hem Master
Ok, ok, it started out as a cheapie metal book end. But with your help it can be transformed into your very own Hem Master.
Here are the tools you will need for the transformation:
1. metal book end
2. a tape measure you know is accurate
3. a sharpie marker or paint pen
Here are the steps you will need to take to complete the transformation:
1. Set the lowly metal book end on a flat surface. ie your table
2. Measure the height of your lowly metal book end.
3. Write with your sharpie marker/ paint pen, the height in inches on your new Hem Master.
My Hem Master is 5" tall.
Now... Using your new Hem Master.
1. Place flat base of Hem Master under the heel of person who has on the now too long pants. The too long pants do NOT have to be in-side-out.
2. Mark a chalk line on pants leg at the top the Hem Master as pictured below. Be sure to mark both pant legs.
3. ADD: together the Hem (+fold over if you are using one) + Hem Master height = x
x is now the length you will measure and mark for the cut-off line.
Example: 2" hem + 1/2" fold over + 5" Hem Master. = 7 1/2" so x = 7 1/2 "
3 a. If you have a serger and you are not going to need to fold over, just omit the fold over step.
ADD: Hem + Hem Master height = x
Example: 2" hem + 5" Hem Master = 7" so x = 7"
4. Measure from chalk mark toward existing hem and mark at 7( 1/2)" (Rip out old hem if it is in the way. Press.) Cut off excess fabric, (fold up 1/2" in, press,) fold up 2",press, and then hem using your prefered method.
Yeah, I know Nasa won't be calling me asking for permisson to use my Hem Master. And you do still have to do the math, measure, mark, press, pen and sew, but if you have ever been on your knees trying to pin mark an in-side-out pair of pants while a wiggley person is standing on a chair or bar stool you will apperciate the Hem Master.
Give it a try and see what you think. Let me know.
Happy Sewing!
As you can see by the project door , we have been busy.We did costume touch-ups for Shanghied in Astoria (purple satin insets and lace trim on 5 can-can dancers tops, bias tape trim for "Jakko" and "Enio's" vests, and took in the waist band on "Rosie's" skirt). For ourselves we have sewn six skirts, five shirts, one purse and worked as sewing consultant for daughter # 3's new skirt and poncho.
We are doing so much, I just keep getting caught up in the process and forget to take pictures of what we are sewing. I start out so good too...
Here are the project photos we took of the "Stripey Purse"
Gather all materials Iron Layout pattern Attach interfacingFinished purse.
See, I do start out pretty good, but then the picture taking takes a backseat to the creative process.
I think Bree did a great job on this "Stripey Purse". She must think so too, because she is using it right now. And she has plans ( and more importantly, the fabric) to make more of these cuties.
The aformentioned "Bestest Friend in the Whole Wide World", has arrived all safe and sound and loves her newly painted guitar enough to actually learn to play the bass line of "Smoke on the Water". Getting her to pose for a photo of her and the finished guitar.... well, shall we say not yet. But I am working on her.
Now here is a handy tool/ gadget for you"make" and try out for yourself.
I was with my then future son-in-law helping him pick out a suit or two for his honeymoon. When it was time for the fitting, the lady tailor at the Men's Warehouse pulled out this funky looking metal thing and had him put his heel on the base, then she marked a line on the back of the pants leg. That's it. Hummmm? The suit came in and the pants were the right length. No pins... no measuring tape... no gauges? Where did she get that thingy? How did it work? Well I looked all over for that thingy. I asked all around and no one could tell me
a. how does it work. b. where to get it. or c. what is it?
The Men's Warehouse acted like it was some kind of national secret. So, I figured it out myself.... then I found a common household item that would work as replacement, it's not as pretty as the one she had but for about two dollars you can have one too!
TA DA!
The Hem Master
Ok, ok, it started out as a cheapie metal book end. But with your help it can be transformed into your very own Hem Master.
Here are the tools you will need for the transformation:
1. metal book end
2. a tape measure you know is accurate
3. a sharpie marker or paint pen
Here are the steps you will need to take to complete the transformation:
1. Set the lowly metal book end on a flat surface. ie your table
2. Measure the height of your lowly metal book end.
3. Write with your sharpie marker/ paint pen, the height in inches on your new Hem Master.
My Hem Master is 5" tall.
Now... Using your new Hem Master.
1. Place flat base of Hem Master under the heel of person who has on the now too long pants. The too long pants do NOT have to be in-side-out.
2. Mark a chalk line on pants leg at the top the Hem Master as pictured below. Be sure to mark both pant legs.
3. ADD: together the Hem (+fold over if you are using one) + Hem Master height = x
x is now the length you will measure and mark for the cut-off line.
Example: 2" hem + 1/2" fold over + 5" Hem Master. = 7 1/2" so x = 7 1/2 "
3 a. If you have a serger and you are not going to need to fold over, just omit the fold over step.
ADD: Hem + Hem Master height = x
Example: 2" hem + 5" Hem Master = 7" so x = 7"
4. Measure from chalk mark toward existing hem and mark at 7( 1/2)" (Rip out old hem if it is in the way. Press.) Cut off excess fabric, (fold up 1/2" in, press,) fold up 2",press, and then hem using your prefered method.
Yeah, I know Nasa won't be calling me asking for permisson to use my Hem Master. And you do still have to do the math, measure, mark, press, pen and sew, but if you have ever been on your knees trying to pin mark an in-side-out pair of pants while a wiggley person is standing on a chair or bar stool you will apperciate the Hem Master.
Give it a try and see what you think. Let me know.
Happy Sewing!
